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how did Highlanders dress during battle in 18thc? (Read 48159 times)
01/12/07 at 16:12:52

desertrose   Offline
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Arizona, USA

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I know this must sound like a crazy question to some of you, but I am on another board where folks are saying that the Highlanders of 1746 and before always removed their kilts before battle due to weight of the fabric.  And, they took their linen shirts and tied them around their crotch (sorry to be so specific).  Here is the source many are using and I know you all would know the truth, so I can accurately tell the truth to folks who come to our 1745 Jacobite camp.  Thanks so much for your help.

Oops, forgot the add the site where folks are getting this information.

http://www.myarmoury.com/feature_armies_scots.html
 
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Reply #1 - 01/12/07 at 16:32:34

Vicar Wm Gray Beard Abernethy   Offline
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Hello, Rose!  It's been a while since I have seen your name pop up here on the forum.  I hope your holidays were wonderful.
From everything I have read, all of the drawings and paintings that I have seen, and all of the "experts" (aren't we all?) that I have heard on the subject of dress for battle, it depends on who you were, where you were from, and what the weather was like as to what a Jacobite wore into battle.  I can't believe that any Highlander in his right mind would have considered shedding any wool on the bitter cold and wet Drummossie Moor before or during the Battle of Culloden. 
Those who wore woolen trews would not have removed them before battle.  Those who wore wee kilts probably would not have removed them before battle.  Those who wore great kilts may or may not have chosen to leave them behind before entering the fray, both for economic reasons (wool, especially the "whole nine yards" has never been cheap) and for military considerations (ease and speed of movement), or to leave them on for warmth in battles taking place during foul weather.  I cannot for the life of me remember seeing any depictions of Jacobites in battle in only their shirtsleeves, but that may be simply because there are yet a lot of paintings and drawings that I have not come across yet.
 

Nemo me impune lacessit (Latin for "Let none tread on me with impunity," the motto of the bull thistle, the flower of Scotland)
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Reply #2 - 01/12/07 at 16:53:47

Henrik_B._Boegh   Offline
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and NO UNION!
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Hi Rose,

I think the idea of Jacobites going into battle in their shirts only is more or less a myth (probably given greater appeal during the Victorian-period). There is, from what I've read, only one battle in Highland history which tell of warriors discarding their plaids and running about in their shirts alone, and that battle was called "Battle of the shirts". http://www.clan-cameron.org/battles/1544.html
I think I have read somewhere that highlanders discarded their plaids during the battle of Killiecrankie as well, but don't remember the source. The reason given in both the one above in 1544 and Killiecrankie in 1689 was that it was in the middle of the summer and the weather was good and hot.

Given the fact that neither the battle of Falkirk or Culloden was fought on warm days (both featuring wind and rain, and a wee bit of snow), I think it's unreasonable to think any man would throw his good warm plaid off. I'm a bit unsure of Prestonpans, but that battle was fought in the morning, and that usually isn't the warmest time of day (not even in September Tongue ).

Cheers,
Henrik
 

God save King James VIII!&&&&Constant and True.
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Reply #3 - 01/13/07 at 00:43:15

desertrose   Offline
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Arizona, USA

Posts: 47
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so sorry I have been away for so long! I always learn so much on here!  I will try not to be a stranger.  You all are such a gem!  For one thing, I lost your website addy and it took me awhile to acquire it again.  Embarrassed

I just felt in my heart that the Highlanders did not remove their kilts while in battle, but the gals on the site I am on kept saying so and included the one source I posted in here. So because I am an 18thc re-enactor and "living historian" I wanted to make sure what I felt was true was backed up by you all as you all have tons more experience  than me.   

many thanks to all and any more info is more than welcome! Thanks!  Smiley
 
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Reply #4 - 01/13/07 at 07:04:48

Brian Carpenter   Offline
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Port Crane, NY

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The Highlanders did not throw off their plaids and kilts to fight in battles.  The one noteworthy instance Henrik mentions from the 1500's WAS noteworthy because of how unusual the occasion was - a very hot day.

The Black Watch charged the French lines at Ticonderoga in the middle of July 1758, and did not take off their plaids... and there is no mention of such a practice during the Jacobite period a decade earlier.

Your gal friends are simply wrong...!
 

"You will be a brother to pirates and corsairs" -from the Old Charges of Freemasonry
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Reply #5 - 01/14/07 at 16:44:37

desertrose   Offline
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Arizona, USA

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Many many, thanks, Brian!  I found it hard to believe cause didn't clans identify each other in battle by the tartan they wore?  Feel free to educate me more if any of you so would like.  thanks!  Smiley

Now, what about when the Highlanders were our working on their fields and such, the gals said that the Highlanders removed their kilts and wore only their shirts and tied "between their legs."  Anyone if there is any truth to that?  I feel so silly asking these questions but as some of you  know, we as re-enactors get asked all kinds of questions and I just feel I need to know.  From my research, I find nothing mentioned about this either!  So would appreciate your sharing any knowledge of this as well...thanks!

Oh, I realized why I have not received any replies on this site. My pc crashed way back in April of last year and I lost everything!!  I forgot to change my email on this site when I got the new pc and signed up for broadband as well. Plus, it helped to find the site again, thanks to a friend!  Now I am back in business here with you all.  

I forgot to say hello to the Vicar and hope you and yours are doing well and will have a terrific new year!  Love your avatar pic, btw!  Take care! Smiley



I have another silly question too, but that will be for another thread.  Wink
 
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Reply #6 - 01/14/07 at 18:33:18

Webmaster Emeritus Kitty   Offline
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I'll let the tartan guys answer the question about battleground identification (my guess is that they'll tell you identification was done more by plant badges than by thread count, with a brief allusion to regional native dyes being of peripheral use in identifying where someone's wool might have come from). Trying to ID tartan on the fly with smoke all around is an exercise in futility, especially when nothing was standardised.

I just can't believe that no one's yet figured out that the "shirt tied between the legs" thing was invented by female reenactors solely for the purpose of convincing men to get their kit off more often.
 
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Reply #7 - 01/14/07 at 19:25:23

desertrose   Offline
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Bahahahhaha! That is a great answer, Webbie! I love it!  many thanks!  Smiley

 
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Reply #8 - 01/15/07 at 11:56:34

Henrik_B._Boegh   Offline
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HAHAHA! Great answer!  Grin

As the Webmistress said, clan-plant badges on the bonnets was the way to show which clan you belonged to rather than by the tartan.
And, no, I don't think men walked around in their shirt-tails. Walking around with bare thighs was a bit taboo, I think. Just like walking around without at least a waistcoat to hide your shirt (which was the undies of the day). Breeches was far more common in the Highlands at the time than many of the modern day Jacobites will accept Tongue and I think many workers would rather wear that than a plaid when doing something that got one wet and dirty. From what I've read the plaid was most of all the garb of the warriors, and that there was some sort of pride connected to the wearing of it. I think Brian might help you more than me on this. Smiley

Cheers,
Henrik
 

God save King James VIII!&&&&Constant and True.
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Reply #9 - 01/15/07 at 15:20:07

Brian Carpenter   Offline
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Port Crane, NY

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The plaid, along with (later) the philabeg, were the everyday, workaday outdoors dress of the highlanders in pre-Proscription times.  One should not attach romantic "warrior garb" status to these items, as they were worn by cattle drovers, boatmen, oat farmers, ghillies, and any others who spent most of their time employed out-of-doors in that culture.  For the poor clansman, his plaid was worn and worked in all day, slept in all night, and became rather nastily odorous! 
As Henrik says, these fellows were not averse to donning typical knee-breeches either. but for "in-the-field" usage, bare legs were preferred in the wet, heathery, boggy environment of the Highlands.  That's why the kilt evolved there, afterall (Celts having always been a trouser wearing people).
And, I do recall a period reference to clansmen going about in only their shirt-tails, but only at home and in one's own house.  Perhaps it was in Burt's "Letters"....
 

"You will be a brother to pirates and corsairs" -from the Old Charges of Freemasonry
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Reply #10 - 01/15/07 at 20:01:31

Webmaster Emeritus Kitty   Offline
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I would also be willing to go along with partial disrobing around the home...it's pretty well accepted that women would shed some layers of clothing when working at home, why not men? And I know I've read of visitors being appalled by highlanders/islanders going outside naked in the mornings to heed the call of nature (and to pass the time until the smoke from the fire got above chest level indoors). That said, it was a cold era in a cold climate, and my thought is that sweltering days did not happen terribly often. Add to this that not everyone lived in a remote and isolated area that was untraveled, and in such cases, would likely have maintained some sort of decorum.

And yes, I definitely agree that breeches were more prevalent than thought, particularly in the northeast and the Trossachs. We know that MacGregor of Glencarnoch had some very fancy battle clothes made (or at least ordered the fabric for such), notably breeches, drawers, and boot hose, without a scrap of plaid in the order; I doubt that he was a lone breeches-wearing whacko in the Jacobite army. If he was, he was a goshdarned well-dressed whacko living far beyond his means.

Personally, I can say that every engraving or representation of highland blacksmiths I've seen shows them wearing breeches and chaps (ever try to shoe a horse in a kilt??)...and that fact alone is enough to get one in double-deep trouble with some reenactor-types ("noooooooooo, they all wore kilts!!!")  Roll Eyes.  The plaid is a remarkably utilitarian garment, well-suited to the environment in which it was used (and IMO, it shouldn't really be thought of as anything else from a sociological standpoint...I am notably unromantic), but I'm pretty convinced that it could be (and was) replaced by more suitable clothing when circumstances dictated.
 
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Reply #11 - 01/16/07 at 04:29:17

Henrik_B._Boegh   Offline
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and NO UNION!
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Sorry Brian, I think you're right. The "warrior-garb" thing must have been some later notion because of its' use in the Army etc.

I didn't know about the clansmen walking about in their shirttails. Interesting. These clansmen must have been either of the mid-ranker or rear-ranker sort, then..? I find it hard to believe that any Highland Gentleman would do it. After all, they were peacocks with a sence of both fashion and, as our Webmistress said, decorum.

Is there any modern print of the "Letters..." by Burt available?

Cheers,
Henrik
 

God save King James VIII!&&&&Constant and True.
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Reply #12 - 01/16/07 at 16:26:14

desertrose   Offline
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Thanks again, everyone.  Seems it would be hard to identify the plant on their bonnet as well from all the smoke during battle though.   I watched the PBS special "Battlefield Britian" yesterday.  It was a re-enactment of the battle of Culloden. Did anyone see this?  Of course, everyone wore their Great kilts and such for the battle and noting the weather at the time, I was sure they did.

I also noticed their shoes. They were 18th c with buckles. I didn't see anyone wearing ghillies.  Which was more the norm, ghillies or shoes of the day with buckles?  I had read somewhere and wish now I had the site where mostly women Highlanders or Jacobites wore ghillies (a lot of times barefoot), but if one of the soliders needed shoes, the camp follower always gave up her shoes to him and most the time they were ghillies. Anyone care to correct me on that issue now?  Now I have gone from kilts to shoes!  Wink
 
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Reply #13 - 01/16/07 at 17:38:03

Vicar Wm Gray Beard Abernethy   Offline
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Rosemary,
What you are running into is quite typical of historical re-enactors.  There are more than enough "experts" and far too little documentary evidence upon which their "expertise" is based.  I know that folks like Brian, Henrik, the Webmistress, Larry and Missy Clark of Barkertown Sutlers and myself do our best to be reasonably well informed on such matters as these, and yet, if you were to poll the lot of us on any particular item of clothing, you would probably come up with as wide a variety of responses as you would have in personalities.  
The other aspect is that Scots, most particularly Highland Scots are a hard lot to pin down with generalities.  They had their own traditions and rationale, and didn't care one whit for anyone else's.  
They dressed for practicality, not fashion, when working and fighting, unless they were well-off enough financially to do otherwise.  Kilts or trews, hose or barefoot, buckle shoes or ghillies, they were all matters of practicality and affordability.  If they weren't wealthy enough to buy buckle shoes which had to be made by a cobbler, they made their own currans or ghillies, or went without.  If they preferred the versatility and utilitarian qualities of the great kilt or wee kilt with plaid, that's what they wore.  If they were more Continental in their personal taste in fashion and had a wife or relative clever enough with shears, needle and thread to tailor a pair of trews, then that was what they wore.  
I would think that a great kilt or wee kilt and plaid would have been much more durable than trews, and afforded much greater freedom of movement (and freedom when nature called), and so may well have been the choice of more Highlanders than not in the mid 18th century, but that's just my opinion, no better or worse than yours or anyone else's.
Back to the "fighting stripped to the shirt sleeves" issue, I would have to agree with those who feel that it would be by far the exception for a Highlander to be seen in public (as most battles were) in his underwear without both kilt and waistcoat on.  
Sans kilt would also imply sans kilt belt and all that would have hung from it, such as sporran and dirk, good weights to keep a kilt down in front in a stiff wind (hence my definition of the difference between a rich and poor Highlander--the rich one had enough coin in his sporran to hold down his kilt in a stiff wind!).  What would have kept the lightweight linen or raw silk shirt down with no such weights?  I am not sure how the shirt might have been securely tied between the legs to keep the Highlander from exposing himself to any and all spectators during battle.  I would choose to ignore the speculation of any who would state emphatically that it was a regular practice for Highlanders to fight in only their shirts, except in extreme exceptions, such as extremely warm temperatures, as previously stated was the case at the Battle of the Shirts (Kin-Loch-Lochy) in 1544 and Killiecrankie in 1689.
Rule of thumb, if it sounds like an emphatic statement of fact about the fine points of what Highlanders wore when and where, it is probably more hot air than hard fact.  Think like a practical, penny-pinching spend-thrift in the hard times and harsh environment of the Highlands of the mid 18th century, and you will probably arrive at a very reasonable conclusion! Relax about the details and just concentrate on getting the general facts of Scottish history down and you will enjoy our very addictive hobby more.
Alba aye!
 
 

Nemo me impune lacessit (Latin for "Let none tread on me with impunity," the motto of the bull thistle, the flower of Scotland)
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Reply #14 - 01/16/07 at 18:12:06

desertrose   Offline
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Once again, Vicar! You are always wise and give me such kind and gracious advice...no matter what crazy question I ask.  And I appreciate everyone's answer immensely as well.  You all have been so wonderful! As a re-enactor, I am sure there are those of you who are come across some really crazy questions asked of you (don't you?) and then there are people coming to your camp with stories  who feel they know it all and want to tell you otherwise as to what you think you know and have studied! Since I am trying to be a "living historian"  I want to know and teach the truth the best I can as I am sure is the mission of all of you. It is hard being a rookie in this area, but I am reading, researching and when in doubt, I ask.  I have submitted my questions to other groups, but you all are the ones who came to my rescue.  Many many thanks again for your time and kind patience. 

YHS,  Rosemary
 
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